I saw this method of making ragout on No Reservations.
Anthony Bourdain was in Naples, Italy. This recipe is inspired by an Italian
grandmother I don’t even know... but that’s all you need to know. Who other
than an Italian grandmother is better suited to teach ragout?
Ragout is meat braised in tomato sauce over low heat for a long time. This recipe is definitely a time commitment but your commitment will be rewarded, I promise. I love lamb so lamb shanks are my meat of choice for this dish. Feel free to substitute with your favorite meat, but whatever you choose, make sure you chose a cut on the bone. Bone = flavor.
The Finished Product:
Food:
2 Lamb shanks, 28 oz can of whole tomatoes, garlic, olive
oil, parmesan cheese, herbs (pick two: oregano, sage, rosemary, or thyme), salt,
pepper, & pasta.
Prep & Cook:
Pre-heat a large pot over medium-high heat and
add enough olive oil to fully coat the bottom. In the mean time salt and pepper
the lamb shanks. First step of this recipe is to brown the meat. This is an
easy process as long as you apply the proper technique. There are two key steps
to follow. 1. You have to start with a sizzling hot pot. 2. Once you place the
meat in the pot, don’t mess with it. Leave the meat alone to brown. You will know
when it is ready to turn when it no longer sticks to the bottom of the pot.
Brown the meat on all sides. This process should take about 10-12 minutes. The
meat should look like this at the end of this step:
While the meat is browning puree the canned tomatoes in a
blender to a smooth consistency. Add the tomatoes, garlic & herbs
over the meat once all sides are browned.
I listed four herbs I
think play nicely with the heartiness of the meat and sweetness of the tomatoes
but you do not need all four. I say choose your two favorite. You should have
enough tomatoes to submerge the meat. If you are a little short, add some
water. Season with salt and pepper but be mindful of the sodium lever of the
canned tomatoes. Adjust the salt level accordingly. Bring everything to a boil
and reduce down to a low simmer. You want to cook over very low heat, with the
lid a-jar, for about two hours, stirring occasionally. The tomatoes should
reduce by half and reach a thick consistency at the end of the two hours.
Remove the meat from the sauce. At this point the meat should be so tender it almost falls off the bone.
Cooking the pasta and
finishing the dish:
Bring water to a boil and add a liberal amount of salt. You
want the pasta cooking water to taste like the ocean. This is your only chance
to season the pasta. Once the pasta is slightly under al dente, drain it and
add it to the tomato sauce to finish cooking the pasta for the final 2 minutes. You want
the pasta to go directly from the water to the sauce so that the sauce can
cling to the starches of the pasta.
Service:
You can either cut the meat into pieces and add it to the
saucy pasta or serve it separately. Finish the dish with parmesan cheese.
The lamb imparts a magical flavor to the tomato sauce. This
is such a hearty dish and you definitely want to enjoy it with a glass of red
wine. I served this at one of my parties
and I was told it was the best pasta they ever tasted…. What a compliment!!
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